If any place in the world can be called the center of Christmas, it must be Bethlehem, the city where the Christmas Gospel story took place more than two thousand years ago. Therefore, thousands of Christians from all over the world usually make a pilgrimage to Bethlehem to celebrate Christmas in the birthplace of Jesus.

Celebrating Christmas in Bethlehem in a normal year is a very atmospheric experience. The city is lit up with Christmas lights and adorned with Christmas decorations that even Norwegians will recognize, including Christmas trees. For the local residents, Christmas is also an important source of income as they sell souvenirs and handmade decorations to visitors at the Christmas markets in Jesus' birthplace.

The war that broke out on October 7, 2023 has put an end to that. Last year's Christmas celebration was canceled. No joy and no caroling. Christmas mass was held in the Latin church in Bethlehem. The festive atmosphere was absent, but hope was still there. Patriarch Pizzaballa said it this way in his sermon during the Christmas mass:

"If we want it to be Christmas, even in times of war, we must act more in a way that bears witness to brotherhood, peace, acceptance, forgiveness and reconciliation."

This year, there will be no ordinary Christmas in Bethlehem either. Ola Musleh, a Christian CRS employee ( Caritas USA) who lives in Bethlehem, says it like this:

– We look forward to family reunions, to gathering, to feeling the Christmas spirit. But at the same time it hurts us that our country is not our country, and our people are not doing well. The pain is so deep that we feel paralyzed in a way, she says.

Christmas is an important holiday for Christian Palestinians, but this year, like last year, the Christmas spirit will be hard to find.

– We look forward to Christmas to take a break, perhaps to disconnect from reality. But we know that everything that is happening around us will not be the same, she says.

Christmas in the last Christian village in Palestine

Bethlehem is the place where the Christmas miracle is said to have taken place, but the last completely Christian village in the Holy Land is Taybeh.

In Taybeh, too, Christmas is usually something entirely different. The village's Catholic parish priest, Bashar Fawadleh, describes it this way:

– Christmas in Taybeh is a magical blend of warmth, spirituality and community celebration. Preparations begin weeks before the holiday, with streets and homes adorned with sparkling lights and decorations, in step with the spiritual preparations of the faithful to welcome Christmas and its message of hope, peace and love.

After celebrating Christmas mass in church, it's time for good food and family fun.

– After the mass, families gather around tables set with a variety of traditional Palestinian dishes and sweets unique to the occasion.

Fawadleh explains that Christmas in 2023 will be different.

– Christmas in Taybeh last year was a mixture of hope and sorrow, set against the tensions of the war in Gaza and the escalating unrest in the West Bank.

As in Bethlehem, the Christmas festivities in Taybeh were canceled, but the Christmas mass was of course held.

– The activities focused on the religious and spiritual aspects, marked by a spirit of solidarity and empathy for Christians in Gaza, who celebrated Christmas amidst bombings, destruction and the loss of their loved ones.

Will there be any Christmas celebrations in Taybeh in 2024?

– Christians in Taybeh are hesitant to participate in the external celebrations of Christmas due to the difficult situation in the region, says Fawadleh.

This is partly due to the ongoing war in Gaza and the unrest in the West Bank, but for many Palestinians it is now difficult to afford a proper Christmas celebration.

– Many feel that the current situation makes it difficult to fully enjoy and celebrate, while others are hindered by severe financial constraints that make it difficult to organize celebrations.

Christmas in Gaza

The situation in the West Bank, for example in Bethlehem and Taybeh, is difficult. The situation in Gaza is catastrophic. What was Christmas like there last year?

“Last year, the atmosphere was difficult. The church served as a refuge for us, despite the many challenges. We celebrated Christmas, but there were no usual gatherings and celebrations. Although the celebrations were subdued, being together within the walls of the church kept the Christmas spirit alive,” says Nathaly Sayegh, who works in Gaza for Caritas Jerusalem (CJ).

George Antone, another CJ employee in Gaza, says they had been looking forward to Christmas 2023.

– We had plans for Christmas, such as traveling to Bethlehem to celebrate Christmas, joining family and friends in the West Bank and spending the holiday in peace.

Instead, it became a fight for survival. Many gathered in the Latin Church in Gaza. The airstrike that hit the Orthodox Church in Gaza, with great loss of life, made it clear that even church grounds were not safe.

“On December 16, when the church grounds were besieged by the IDF (Israel Defense Forces), two women were shot dead, twelve people were injured, and the church was bombed. It is a cruel reality to have to deal with. Their plans for Christmas were shattered, and fears for their own safety began to gnaw at them,” says Antone.

What do Sayegh and Antone think Christmas in Gaza will be like this year?

– The celebration is limited to the church while we seek shelter, but the closeness and shared faith provide comfort and endurance, says Sayheg.

“We have no answers to the children’s questions about their safety and why they have to face all this. Are we able to protect them if they are arrested, displaced again or bombed?” says Antone.

What do Palestinians want for Christmas?

“The most meaningful gift for us this Christmas would be peace and security. A chance to live freely, gather without fear, and celebrate openly would be a true blessing for all Gazans. Above all, we pray for a future filled with hope, where our society can flourish without the constant challenges we face,” says Sayegh.